Have you ever heard about Orkney islands? Most probably not. Neither did I, until a couple of months ago. I am a travel enthusiast and passionate about maps and geography, so I consider myself quite knowledgeable in this field. However these islands were a place I had absolutely no information about.
To be honest I would have never considered this archipelago as a travel destination on its own. Yet these islands were part of our North Sea Cruise and I was very enthusiastic to learn about this destination. It was actually one of the reasons that made me choose this itinerary – the less I know about a place the more I seem to be attracted to it.
General Information
- The Orkney islands are composed of 70 islands, 20 of which are inhabited.
- They are located 10km off the North-East coast of Scotland.
- Orkney and Shetland islands are now part of Scotland, however they have a strong Viking history as they were under the Norwegian rule until the 15th century.
- During the first and second world wars, Orkney was an important naval base for the British Navy
- Surprisingly Kirkwall, the capital of mainland Orkney recently became the most popular cruise port in the UK
Places to visit in Mainland Orkney
Mainland Orkney is quite a small island and can be explored comfortably in a day. Here are some places we visited in one day:
Bay of Houton
The Bay of Houton is located on the southern coast of Mainland Orkney. It is situated near the small village of Houton, which lies on the west side of Scapa Flow, one of the world’s largest natural harbors. Scapa Flow was a key naval base and its waters contain the wrecks of several German ships scuttled at the end of World War I. From this bay there is also a ferry terminal to the southern Orkney islands.
Stromness
Stromness is the second-largest town in Orkney, known for its maritime heritage, quaint streets, and proximity to historic sites, Stromness offers a rich blend of culture, history, and natural beauty. If you are arriving to Orkney by ferry, Stromness will be your departure point as this is where the ferries from mainland Scotland arrive.
Loch of Stenness
The Loch of Stenness is a large lake located near the Neolithic sites of Brogar and Stenness. It is closely associated with the area’s ancient archaeological history and serves as a significant natural landmark. Nearby there is the UNESCO site home to the Standing Stones of Stenness: One of the oldest stone circles in the British Isles, dating back to around 3100 BC. Only a few stones remain standing today, but they form part of a larger ancient ceremonial complex. The Loch of Stenness, along with the nearby Ness of Brodgar (where there are ongoing excavations with new discoveries of prehistoric structures), forms part of one of the most significant Neolithic landscapes in Europe.
Skara Brae & Skaill Beach
Skara Brae is another part of the Heart of Neolithic Orkney, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and offers a glimpse into life 5,000 years ago. This site is a remarkably well-preserved Neolithic settlement located on the west coast of the Orkney Islands in Scotland. The place was discovered in 1850 after a storm revealed the buried village under sand dunes at Bay of Skaill. The site had been hidden beneath the sand for centuries, which contributed to its exceptional preservation. Adjacent to the site is Skaill Beach which provides a unique environment where sand and pebbles meet rocky outcrops, creating interesting rock pools during low tide, which are home to various marine life like crabs, anemones, and small fish.
Brough of Birsay
The Brough of Birsay is a small tidal island, meaning it can only be accessed during low tide by a causeway from the mainland. At high tide, the island is cut off by the sea (as you can see in the photo above). The island is located near the village of Birsay, on the western edge of Mainland Orkney, and is set in a beautiful coastal environment, surrounded by cliffs and sea views. The island is an important archaeological site with visible remains of Pictish and Norse buildings. The Brough of Birsay is not just an archaeological site; it is also known for its rich wildlife. The cliffs and rocky shores around the island are home to a variety of seabirds, and the waters are frequented by seals.
Broch of Gurness
Apologies for not having any photos of this place but we just passed by and did not stop as we joined a tour. If you manage to visit on your own, make sure to plan a good half an hour here as this is the most important historical site on the island. Its importance lies in the fact that the site is home to Iron Age broch settlements in Scotland and is very well preserved. It offers fascinating insights into the social, defensive, and architectural aspects of life in the Iron Age.
Kirkwall
No visit to Orkney is complete without visiting its capital – Kirkwall. As the cultural, economic, and historical heart of Orkney, Kirkwall is a charming town known for its rich Norse heritage, medieval architecture, and vibrant community. It is the main hub of the islands, with regular ferry and air connections to other islands in Orkney and the Scottish mainland. St. Magnus Cathedral is the most prominent and iconic landmark in Kirkwall. Known as the ‘Light of the North’, the cathedral is a magnificent example of Romanesque architecture. Broad Street and Albert Street, the main thoroughfares, are lined with historic buildings and shops, creating an atmosphere that combines both modern and traditional elements. In 2019, this street has been named Scotland’s Most Beautiful High Street having topped a poll of the general public.
Tips for visiting Orkney for a day while on cruise
If you have read my previous post you may know that we have booked this cruise last minute. Unfortunately in Orkney availability for indpendent travel was not available – we wanted to hire a car like we did for our other stops, but there was no availability. So we had to join a tour offered by our cruise ship – and to be honest we did not like it all. We are not the type of travellers who enjoy going on tours (especially with other 50 people or so) as we love being independent. However our options were either this – or stay in Kirkwall for an entire day. We went around most of mainland Orkney by bus with a couple of short stops that were not enough to explore. My recommendation is to book in advance any travel arrangements you might require in Orkney as availability is very limited – car hire, accommodation (if you are staying overnight) and any tours you wish to do must be prebooked well in advance especially if visiting in summer.
If you wish to remain for an entire day in Kirkwall, (which I do not recommend as it is too much), there are frequent free shuttle buses travelling from the cruise terminal to the centre and back.
Always check out Orkney’s Official Tourism website for events and updated information on places to visit.
